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quick question re: fuel tank hose

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  • quick question re: fuel tank hose

    About to reinstall rebuilt carbs--quick question about the vent hose that runs from the rear of the tank--where should it route after going through the clip on the left side airbox mount? There is a wire clip on either end, and I get that the one is used to attach the hose to the nipple on the tank, but not sure about the other end. I would've thought it just vented to the air, so not sure why there is a hose clip on it.

    Thanks all!

    Click image for larger version

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    1979 XS1100F
    1978 Suzuki GS750E

  • #2
    The wire clip on the bottom does not belong on the hose. The hose goes through that clip, and in the frame you will see a welded wire on the swingarm boss. hose goes through that and stops about two inches below it. That hose drains water that get into the gas cap area of the Standard fuel tank.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #3
      Just thought of something else it may be! There is a vent hose for the middle drive that goes up under the seat/tank area. Open at the top, no clip, but clip at the bottom. Keeps water out of the middle drive so you MUST use it! My LG didn't have it when I first got it, and I almost lost the middle drive because of that.
      Ray Matteis
      KE6NHG
      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
        Just thought of something else it may be! There is a vent hose for the middle drive that goes up under the seat/tank area. Open at the top, no clip, but clip at the bottom. Keeps water out of the middle drive so you MUST use it! My LG didn't have it when I first got it, and I almost lost the middle drive because of that.
        Thanks Ray, that confirms my instinct. I fired the bike for the first time over the weekend, and she fired right up! Seems to be an oil control issue to resolve, primarily in #2, so more to do however...
        1979 XS1100F
        1978 Suzuki GS750E

        Comment


        • #5
          Not sure how long it's been since running, but if you think it could be rings, pour a little B12 ChemTool into each plug hole and let it set for about 20 minutes. Turn the engine over a few times BEFORE putting plugs back in, then run it. Sometimes you need to run them for about 500 miles before they settle back in.
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
            Not sure how long it's been since running, but if you think it could be rings, pour a little B12 ChemTool into each plug hole and let it set for about 20 minutes. Turn the engine over a few times BEFORE putting plugs back in, then run it. Sometimes you need to run them for about 500 miles before they settle back in.
            Thanks. The rings are new, as are the valve stem seals, so valve guide may be most likely culprit, unfortunately. They seemed tight when I rocked them in the guides during reassembly. But this is my first full top end rebuild, so first time diagnosing under these circumstances.
            1979 XS1100F
            1978 Suzuki GS750E

            Comment


            • #7
              If it's all new, you NEED to "break them in" before anything else!!! I always try to get the bike ready to ride, fire up and check engine for proper advance, etc. Then, when all set, get on an "open" road and in second gear go from 1,500 RPM to about 7,000 RPM and then drop the throttle to idle and let the bike go back down to 1,500. Repeat two times, then follow breakin procedure, IE keep below 3,500 for the first 200 miles, but don't hold a steady RPM for too long.
              Ray Matteis
              KE6NHG
              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

              Comment


              • #8
                Had an issue with 'soft' intake valve guides way back @ about 10k km. Burned oil like crazy. Behind a Vetter/Yamaha firing w/lowers and holes in the muffler axle detents, I was getting gassed pretty bad. SWMBO says that may explain a few things. All re-done under warranty. Found cylinder wear while they were in there and bored it out one over. (wish I'd known about that - what's the problem removing a little more metal?) Hopefully your issue is not guides - not a small job.
                Own - 1980 XS1100G (one owner-me)
                Working on - 1983 Kawasaki GPZ750
                Owned - 1976 XS750D
                Owned - (unknown year) XS650
                (+ too many Yammies/Hondas to mention)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                  If it's all new, you NEED to "break them in" before anything else!!! I always try to get the bike ready to ride, fire up and check engine for proper advance, etc. Then, when all set, get on an "open" road and in second gear go from 1,500 RPM to about 7,000 RPM and then drop the throttle to idle and let the bike go back down to 1,500. Repeat two times, then follow breakin procedure, IE keep below 3,500 for the first 200 miles, but don't hold a steady RPM for too long.
                  yes, well aware--many different opinions about break-in. Here's another reference for it, wonder what you all think of it:
                  https://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
                  1979 XS1100F
                  1978 Suzuki GS750E

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by LenB View Post
                    Had an issue with 'soft' intake valve guides way back @ about 10k km. Burned oil like crazy. Behind a Vetter/Yamaha firing w/lowers and holes in the muffler axle detents, I was getting gassed pretty bad. SWMBO says that may explain a few things. All re-done under warranty. Found cylinder wear while they were in there and bored it out one over. (wish I'd known about that - what's the problem removing a little more metal?) Hopefully your issue is not guides - not a small job.
                    yes hoping I don't have to resort to a machine shop... but we'll see. cylinders measured within tolerances, but as I recall there was some visible wear on that #2 piston and bore. sigh. have to go back and check my notes.
                    1979 XS1100F
                    1978 Suzuki GS750E

                    Comment

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