Fuel screw trouble

[cnap504]

Good tip, thanks

[DiverRay]

cnap504, You can also mark a "top" on each filter, and then trim the lip about 1/4" each side of the spaces needed on the carbs. The number of places depends on the model of carbs, but I think it's about three on your model. With that, you can then seat the filters and not have any problems with airflow restrictions.

[cnap504]

Thanks for the tip about 1/2 reserve capacity.
I did use inexpensive pod filters and yes they do have the lip you spoke of, so I mount them about an 1/8” short of being pushed flush on. It has worked for very short test rides, I’ll know more after a longer ride.

[TopCatGr58]

I am impressed the 11 carburetes very well, it is smooth and quiet with stock exhaust. I put individual air filter pods, did away with the factory dual petcock system in favor of one manual Pingel valve.
142.5 mains, 45 pilots, shimmed needles .030”, set fuel screws to 3 2/3rds out. The bike is coming along well. Need new tires front and rear before being comfortable with its road worthyness.

Hey there Cnap,

Just curious about what Pod filters you put on there? Sounds like you're an experienced builder, but wanted to make sure you knew about the problems "SOME" of the inexpensive pod filters can cause due to their prominent Mounting LIP/Stop on the inside of the rubber mount. They can block the ports on the carb's intake side and cause overly rich conditions, as well as poor and limited throttle/rpm's because they interfere with the vacuum slide ports as well! If you haven't seen them, check out the MODs section, Pods and Velocity stacks mods, you might want to change/add depending on what PODS you used!? JAT!

Secondly, not sure how often you ride till you get to reserve,but you will have 1/2 of your reserve capacity with just the 1 petcock due to the split tank hump design!
T.C.

[Schming]

These engines ,all years, in the stock form, are built on the leaner side so the performance benefits the opening up of the breathing system on both ends if done properly.
For my full dressed '80G with modified baffles in the "Skettis" I'm at the limit on the stock jetting with a stock air box and K&N filter.
For a cruiser I'm ok with stock jetting and the plugs are a good color but when I build my '79SF It'll demand more fuel I'm sure.

[cnap504]

Recently I have rescued a Suzuki GS1150 and Yamaha XS750 all with Mikuni BST 34 carbs also all with individual pod air filters. Both run on 145 mains, I think the lack of a proper air box allows bigger mains. When reassembling the XS1100 carbs I took a shot and put in the 142.5’s considering the apparent success I had with the others. It doesn’t stink of overly rich carburation, runs well and no black smoke.

[cajun31]

I am impressed the 11 carburetes very well, it is smooth and quiet with stock exhaust. I put individual air filter pods, did away with the factory dual petcock system in favor of one manual Pingel valve.
142.5 mains, 45 pilots, shimmed needles .030”, set fuel screws to 3 2/3rds out. The bike is coming along well. Need new tires front and rear before being comfortable with its road worthyness.

I have never gone up as high as a 142.5 main. It doesn't run rich? No complaints from folks riding behind you?

[cnap504]

I am impressed the 11 carburetes very well, it is smooth and quiet with stock exhaust. I put individual air filter pods, did away with the factory dual petcock system in favor of one manual Pingel valve.
142.5 mains, 45 pilots, shimmed needles .030”, set fuel screws to 3 2/3rds out. The bike is coming along well. Need new tires front and rear before being comfortable with its road worthyness.

[cajun31]

Yep the hole was blocked and I did use a bread tie wire to clear it. I’ll be bleeding the system tonight and will post the results. The safety cautions that were mentioned in your responses won’t go unheeded and thanks. I do want to take it down my street but I won’t go far or more than jogging speed.

Glad to see you found the source of the problem.

[cnap504]

Yep the hole was blocked and I did use a bread tie wire to clear it. I’ll be bleeding the system tonight and will post the results. The safety cautions that were mentioned in your responses won’t go unheeded and thanks. I do want to take it down my street but I won’t go far or more than jogging speed.

[cajun31]

look in the maintenance repair area. Find the post concerning the spooge holes front and back masters. Here is the picture of the front with the reservoir removed.

[cajun31]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks

The brake lines are old... I agree with Schming that Ideally they should be replaced. Until you do your brakes will feel spongy at best. They will still work and will stop the bike under normal riding conditions ...but ... if you ever have to get on them quickly because the brakes are a bit spongy they don't grab as aggressively. You get the picture... stainless lines should be on your list of things to do. Back to the spooge hole. It you take the cap off of the master and remove all the brake fluid .... I use a cajun injector syringe for this. You will see a small hole in the middle area of reservoir. I will try to find a picture to help you locate it. the easiest way to clean it of course is to completely disassemble the master... meaning remove the plastic by prying up off the metal and disassemble everything. that way you can readily have access to the and you will be able to see the wire when you push it through the hole. the wire will emerge in the plunger canal. I also shoot some brake cleaner through it after cleaning with wire to ensure it is thoroughly clean. It can be cleared with the wire from the top. I believe a small portion of the plastic reservoir base slightly covers the hole though which is why I am telling you complete disassembly is the better method.

[Schming]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks

If there was crud blocking the hoses you can bet that the MC is fouled also. When I refresh brakes on any bike every part gets dismantled cleaned, inspected and depending on condition sometimes replaced, no short cuts.

[Schming]

Thanks for the safety tip, I did freshen up the calipers but I am having trouble successfully bleeding the front system. Tried the speed bleeders with a Mitey Vac, didn’t work. So then put the original bleeders back on to pump fluid (with a big syringe) from the bottom up, didn’t work. It’s the last repair before I can ride it so I need to come up with a working strategy

Please don't forget that if your bike has the original 40 plus year old rubber brake hoses REPLACE THEM !!! IMHO I would not trust my life or all the hard work to sub par stopping power.

[cnap504]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks