Update...
Cleaned all harness connections, including the kill-switch. Still sounds weird on the right side, but when I put it in gear, no change in idle. I wanna get my kill assembly to test it out, but worried that it might kick it when warmed up.....
new problem...got caught in the rain... (Electrical?!)
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HAHAHAHA...NEVER, SCOTT! NOT UNTIL SHE PURRS!
I seriously have to AT LEAST get this solved...it'll bother me, and I legitimately will NOT be able to sleep. Friends worry about me, because I CANNOT STOP until the problem is solved...even if I don't ride after I'm done, I HAVE TO solve it. I LOVE my bikes...Leave a comment:
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Hey, Scott...just did the voltage test. Everything checks out there...gonna check the connectors behind the fuse box....Leave a comment:
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Whoa, you have your work cut out for you.
The Aux fuse is just a stub from the Load (switch) side of the 30A Main on the big Red wire. The only thing connected to the Aux box is whatever you attach to the two screws below the fuse.
Seriously, check the voltage drop before you dive into anything else and start shredding!
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Yep...that's why I figured it wasn't the other pickup wire. When this type of thing happened last time, the bike made it VERY apparent that two cylinders were out. This time around, I can tell that there's one cylinder out, or a weak spark, etc. I actually have a new kill switch assembly from mike's xs at the garage, so I'm going to go pick that up regardless in a little bit. Also have T.C.'s fuse box that I originally got for the SF, but right now my main focus is cleaning the SG up. I'm gonna take a few pictures in a little, just so you all know what I'm working with! Another question: The auxiliary fuse to the left of the other fuses fell out. Would that make any difference?? It's a stupid question, but I had to ask out of paranoia / to satisfy my OCD...Okay, pick-up coil and ignition coil problems don't usually mess up one cylinder, they hit the pair: 1&4 or 2&3.
A bad battery, spark plug wires, carburetors, or valves can mess up one cylinder.
Start with checking the voltage drop including the entire Ignition circuit.
Open the right-hand side cover, turn on the ignition switch and put the red lead of your multimeter on the large Battery terminal on the Start solenoid, then put the black lead on the Red/White wire on the Start solenoid.
Anything over 1 Volt is too much.
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Okay, pick-up coil and ignition coil problems don't usually mess up one cylinder, they hit the pair: 1&4 or 2&3.
A bad battery, spark plug wires, carburetors, or valves can mess up one cylinder.
Start with checking the voltage drop including the entire Ignition circuit.
Open the right-hand side cover, turn on the ignition switch and put the red lead of your multimeter on the large Battery terminal on the Start solenoid, then put the black lead on the Red/White wire on the Start solenoid.
Anything over 1 Volt is too much.Leave a comment:
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ERM83, your correct referring to those wires. While your at it, I suggest you unplug and clean ALL plug-ins you can find. Least that way, process of elimination is started and can possibly eliminate poor contacts as an issue. Don't forget internal contacts of stop/run switch. That switch COMPLETES running circuit and can create a voltage drop, which definitely affects primary/secondary ignition working correctly and can attribute to mis-fires,lighting and slow or no signal flashing, etc.
. I'm fairly sure there are a few others here that'll jump in, with more specifics to add.
Last edited by motoman; 03-28-2017, 09:37 PM.Leave a comment:
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Whoops...forgot to mention that it's the '80 SG that I'm posting about! The SF is now the project bike. I MAY get another SG for a STEAL, and make custom ripper out of the both of them. The SG that I'm posting about (and have been lately) is staying as close to stock as possible!! It was SO CLOSE to stock when I got it, and I couldn't remotely justify doing any mods to it...keeping it as true as possible!! The SF / and the other SG (that I may buy in the next week) have already been altered...luckily, NOT the frame. No matter WHAT, I'm not chopping into the frame on the project. NEVER. There's people here that will get an IMMACULATE stock vintage bike of whatever make, and the first thing they do is CHOP INTO IT. I'm all about custom rides, but if it's in good shape stock, I believe in keeping the integrity of it.
To each their own, for sure...not trying to be a jerk!Leave a comment:
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I remember when I posted about this the last time, you'd told me about that...followed your lead, but missed a few connections. After this hockey game, gonna go through in detail / die-grease the rest!!
Oh, I'd NEVER second / try to out-guess you guys...you've all saved my ass COUNTLESS times in my short time working on this thing!!Would be a good option, THEN we'll go from there. So, with that, don't bother trying to second guess or out-guess us here. No offense intended....just hang in there and follow what's being suggested......THEN we'll move forward from there. As for me, just remember, my initial suggestions doesn't mean I'm done at that point, and also goes for several others who make INITIAL suggestions here
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BTW, good to hear you better explain the coil situation,etc. Remember, you and the bike are there(know area), and I'm here......lotta' distance there tryin' to analize issues at times.
Also, question for you...most of the stress on the pickup wires is INSIDE the left cover, yeah?? Have you ever had problems with the wires past the cover / running along the frame?? The reason I ask is because the pickup wires seem to not move outside of the cover...if I'm wrong, PLEASE set me straight! I'm still learning every day about these beasts, and LOVE and WELCOME the schooling!!
Yeah, 3phase....it doesn't sound bad when idling, but like I said...when I listen to the right exhaust, it just sounds weird. Carbs are clean as a whistle; all my float levels are set correctly. When it starts to get warm WITH the choke on, the idle will kind of drop and stutter. It seriously doesn't sound bad after the warm-up, and pushing the choke off...but when putting it it 1st...the idle nearly drops in half. I hope it's just that plug like you guys said...I have the necessary things to remedy a problem like that, but...process of elimination! Going to try all of your suggestions one by one...will report back!! Thank you all!!Which bike? Not that it matters but you do have two in the sig.
It goes wrong when you put it in gear? There is absolutely nothing in common with the ignition and the transmission except the Neutral switch.
There are a few wire junctions inside the harness for the pick-up coils and the Neutral switch and they all happen to be right next to one another inside the harness sheath where it runs along the bottom of the frame next to the Neutral switch.
Edit: And the harness plug behind the fuse panel where the pick-up coils and Neutral switch plug into the rest of the harness.
If water gets in the sheath -- or the connector --from washing the bike, riding in the rain or condensation that'll turn the individual wire junctions onto a wet clump and the ignition and the transmission will quite literally have everything in common.
You probably have water in the wiring harness unless you've got truly extraordinarily bad timing and the fuel cap vent in the gas tank is plugged too so it basically ran poorly with the ignition partially shorted, then it went lean as you rode home and the half-fast engine started to run out of gas.Leave a comment:
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Which bike? Not that it matters but you do have two in the sig.
It goes wrong when you put it in gear? There is absolutely nothing in common with the ignition and the transmission except the Neutral switch.
There are a few wire junctions inside the harness for the pick-up coils and the Neutral switch and they all happen to be right next to one another inside the harness sheath where it runs along the bottom of the frame next to the Neutral switch.
Edit: And the harness plug behind the fuse panel where the pick-up coils and Neutral switch plug into the rest of the harness.
If water gets in the sheath -- or the connector --from washing the bike, riding in the rain or condensation that'll turn the individual wire junctions onto a wet clump and the ignition and the transmission will quite literally have everything in common.
You probably have water in the wiring harness unless you've got truly extraordinarily bad timing and the fuel cap vent in the gas tank is plugged too so it basically ran poorly with the ignition partially shorted, then it went lean as you rode home and the half-fast engine started to run out of gas.Leave a comment:
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The plug for the pickups behind the fuse panel is where the rain/carwash issue ended up being on mine. For some reason that spot collects the moisture.
Filled that plug with dielectric grease to keep the water out and haven't had an issue since.Leave a comment:
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Would be a good option, THEN we'll go from there. So, with that, don't bother trying to second guess or out-guess us here. No offense intended....just hang in there and follow what's being suggested......THEN we'll move forward from there. As for me, just remember, my initial suggestions doesn't mean I'm done at that point, and also goes for several others who make INITIAL suggestions hereI just put brand new (accel) coils on a few months ago, the last time something like this happened. Resistor bypassed, everything put together perfectly, etc. THAT time, it was one of the wires. I wanted to upgrade the coils anyway, so no big deal. I did the wire check again...everything seems pretty solid?! I guess the next thing is to check those plugs behind the fuse panel...
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BTW, good to hear you better explain the coil situation,etc. Remember, you and the bike are there(know area), and I'm here......lotta' distance there tryin' to analize issues at times.Last edited by motoman; 03-28-2017, 05:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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OOOHHHHHHH...forgot to mention this as well:
when I left work monday morning, took the cover off; I went to start it...it was not having it at first. Hit the starter again, and PPPPOOWWW...GIANT shotgun blast. That has NEVER happened before. At all. It was wet out, but rode home (5 miles), and the last quarter mile from my house...started stumbling/dying.Leave a comment:
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forgot to mention...
I just put brand new (accel) coils on a few months ago, the last time something like this happened. Resistor bypassed, everything put together perfectly, etc. THAT time, it was one of the wires. I wanted to upgrade the coils anyway, so no big deal. I did the wire check again...everything seems pretty solid?! I guess the next thing is to check those plugs behind the fuse panel...Might be worth pulling that ignition cover, two hands, tug trying to separate every inch of those wires. What happens is, from multiple flexing of those wires is the tiny wires INSIDE insulation break. Next would be, remove left side cover, unscrew fuse panel holder itself out of the way, and behind there, there is a larger plug-in that needs to be unplugged and thoroughly clean those plug-in contacts with at least some electrical spray cleaner and plug back together. Thirdly, would be removing plug wires from plugs and unscrew plug caps from them. Cut plug wires back a quarter inch and screw plug caps back on. Fourthly, would be, if still using stock original coils, they can have an unseen with naked eye, a fracture across the outer housing from decades of heating and cooling. Doubtful, as you've stated issue seems to be with just one cyl. Would be of suspect if it were with two cyl off the same coil. That'll get your process of elimination started anyways, then we can proceed on from there
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