new problem...got caught in the rain... (Electrical?!)

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  • ERM83
    replied
    Guys....guys....GUYS.........!!!!!

    I sprayed a little of seafoam topend cleaner inside the boot of #2...noticed it was leaking out of the bottom of the boot?! After boiling the float (which was totally fine!), reassembled everything, sealed the boot, and started her up...SHE ROARS. JUST THAT LITTLE GAP was the problem. Just for good measure, I did the topend spray a bit more, and it runs like a BEAST. It feels RIDICULOUSLY POWERFUL now.

    I swear...the Jurassic park theme was playing in my head when I revved'er, and rode to work. I GOTTA update my picture of SG soon. Thanks for all the info, guys...learned a LOT!!!

    Eric

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    You know, I got PSYCHED when I took the seat out yesterday. NOTHING was getting through there. Cleaned it; excitedly put the carbs back on. STILL THE SAME THING.
    Did you have the fuel line off so you could run some fuel and SEE that it's working? If the screen was plugged, there may still be junk in the "T" fitting on that side.
    A quick test for valves, when you have no tester, is just pull all the plugs, and put your finger over the plug hole in #2. Crank the engine over with the throttle wide open and see if you can keep your finger on the hole.(Don't forget to ground the plug leads!) Try it with #1, and if there is a noticeable difference, you may have valve problems.(may just need adjustment)
    If not much difference, then it should be carb issue.

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  • BA80
    replied
    Originally posted by 3Phase
    Hmm, I'll have to re-check that, I've never actually taken one apart. It's got two inlets and two outlets....
    Because the tank has 2 outlets and the carbs have 2 inlets.


    Originally posted by 3Phase
    A few screws and swipes with a razor blade later: Yep, internally it's an "H" with one o-ring to rule them all.
    It's no wonder it leaks.
    That's why mine was deleted long ago and an H connection put in the lines. After the second or third failure on LD rides it became apparent that just shutting off the petcocks (if necessary) was much less trouble than bypassing that PITA on the road.

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  • ERM83
    replied
    Originally posted by DiverRay
    ERM83,
    As 3Phase said, it's probably the fuel inlet screen on the needle seat. it's a 10mm to take it out, so you CAN do it on the bike with some cussing. To clean, spray carb cleaner from the bowel side of the seat to blast the crud out. Just be careful not to lose the screen! It's not needed to run, but is your last defense against crud getting into the carbs.
    The handlebar switch MAY have some wires that have broken at the solder joints. It's pretty easy to take the two halves apart and just use a solder iron to re-melt the solder on each wire. That will keep it running for another 30 years.
    I know it's been hard, but you are almost there!
    You know, I got PSYCHED when I took the seat out yesterday. NOTHING was getting through there. Cleaned it; excitedly put the carbs back on. STILL THE SAME THING. I'm about to test the float, but I'm starting to think the worst...(valves). I'm not sure what else it could be.

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  • ERM83
    replied
    Also, on PRIME, still quieter on the left side. That was my initial screw-up...NOT loud ENOUGH on the left side! SO CLOSE, GUYS...

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  • ERM83
    replied
    Ok....so yesterday, I THOUGHT it was the screen. It looked like CRAP, so I cleaned the hell out of it. Put'em back on, fired it up, and still the same thing. I'm going to check the float...

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    ERM83,
    As 3Phase said, it's probably the fuel inlet screen on the needle seat. it's a 10mm to take it out, so you CAN do it on the bike with some cussing. To clean, spray carb cleaner from the bowel side of the seat to blast the crud out. Just be careful not to lose the screen! It's not needed to run, but is your last defense against crud getting into the carbs.
    The handlebar switch MAY have some wires that have broken at the solder joints. It's pretty easy to take the two halves apart and just use a solder iron to re-melt the solder on each wire. That will keep it running for another 30 years.
    I know it's been hard, but you are almost there!

    Leave a comment:


  • 3Phase
    replied
    Hmm, I'll have to re-check that, I've never actually taken one apart. It's got two inlets and two outlets....

    A few screws and swipes with a razor blade later: Yep, internally it's an "H" with one o-ring to rule them all.
    It's no wonder it leaks.



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  • BA80
    replied
    Originally posted by 3Phase
    The octy wouldn't starve one carburetor, it'd starve the pair it's feeding: 1&2 or 3&4.
    The octy actually acts as an H connection and feeds all 4 from both petcocks Scott.

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    The octy wouldn't starve one carburetor, it'd starve the pair it's feeding: 1&2 or 3&4.

    Did you unscrew the needle seats when you cleaned the carbs? It'd be pretty extreme but a plugged inlet screen on the needle valve seat would starve one carburetor.

    Also, have you checked the brass floats for leaks? Stick them in a pot of hot water and watch for streams of bubbles. Leaky floats fill with fuel and get heavy, then they don't shut off the fuel at the right level and the carb runs rich or overflows.

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  • ERM83
    replied
    I cleared out the t- fitting ports to carb 2...I'm going to loosen the bolt on the bottom of the bowl to MAKE SURE that fuel is coming in there. Could it be the octopus???

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  • vedgar
    replied
    congratulations !

    You have nothing to fear. It is just metal and plastic and you don't have to fix it to make a living. I was a Jaguar Technician for a living. ( A living hell sometimes). My advice to spray the #2 carb has got you on the right path. I cant be with you in person but will guide you to Nirvana. ( running bike) You are not getting the correct fuel to #2 carb. Find out why . #1 is there fuel in the bowl (no) fix it. Yes ( It is not getting to the choke circuit or the idle circuit)
    Do not pass go do not collect 200 dollars til You have the answers to the fuel in #2 question..

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  • ERM83
    replied
    UPDATE: i've gotta haul ass to work, so i gotta make it quick....

    I remembered that the ignition goes through the right handle bar cluster...moved it around when i changed the throttle cable last night, moved it around a few minutes ago, and it fired right up.

    second: despite cleaning out the carbs (also the T - fuel connections), still not getting fuel to no. 2. sprayed some starting fluid in there, and it SCREAMED. put me in a better mood. I dunno what i'm missing with the carbs, though...so weird. everything looked completely fine...will report back...

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  • BA80
    replied
    Air, fuel, compression, spark.

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  • ERM83
    replied
    Once again, spent ALL DAMN DAY working on it...new plugs, cleaned THE HELL out of the carbs...WILL. NOT. SYART. I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M MISSING, OR WHAT TO DO.

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