Why not another TIRE Thread! :)

[3Phase]

Is not polyester the same thing as nylon?

No. Polyester = many esters. It's a synthesized group of esters like alkyd paint is a group of esters.


Nylon vs. Polyester

[Bonz]

Is not polyester the same thing as nylon?

[3Phase]

speedlimit85, what are the options for 130 mph H rated tire you are considering based on your question? From what I understand and what 3phase has shared, I don't know what brands or options you have with load ratings that fit the bike.

3phase, The ply rating is simply to put it in terms of when they used old fashion cotton fabric to make tires. Ply rating keeps things consistent across the industry and over time. I don't think the number of plies matters as much as what the equivalent ply rating is along with load capacity in combination.

It matters. They have to print the number of plies and the type on the sidewall.

As for equivalent construction, what would you like for your cords:
Aramid (Kevlar)
Fiberglass
Nylon
Polyester
Rayon
Steel


Some example tires:

Metzeler Lasertec Front 100/90-19 57H
Tread Plies/Materiel: 4 Polyester
Sidewall Plies/Material: 4 Polyester

Metzeler Lasertec Rear 130/90-17 68V (not available in H, only V)
Tread Plies/Material: 4 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 3 Nylon

Edit:
Michelin Front Pilot Activ 100/90-19 57V
Tread Plies/Material: 3 Polyester
Sidewall Plies/Material: 2 Polyester

Michelin Rear Pilot Activ 130/90-17 V68
Tread Plies/Material: 2 Aramid/ 2 Polyester
Sidewall Plies/Material: 2 Polyester


Bridgestone Front Battleax BT45V 100/90-19 57V
Tread Plies/Material: 2 Polyester/1 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 2 Polyester

Bridgestone Rear Battlax BT45V 130/90-17 68V
Tread Plies/Material: 3 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 3 Nylon



Continental Front Conti Ultra TKV11 100/90-19
Tread Plies / Material: 4 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: N/A (You can bet your sweet bippy it'll be printed on the sidewall)

Continental Rear Conti Ultra TKV12 130/90-17 68H
Tread Plies / Material: 4 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: N/A (again....)



Dunlop Front D404 100/90-19 57H
Tread Plies/Material: 3 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 3 Nylon

Dunlop Rear D404 130/90-17 68H
Tread Plies/Material: 3 Polyester/1 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 3 Polyester



Kenda Front K657 Challenger 100/90H-19 57H
Tread Plies/Material: 6 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 6 Nylon

Kenda Rear K657 Challenger 130/90-17 68H
Tread Plies/Material: 6 Nylon
Sidewall Plies/Material: 6 Nylon


I don't have my old Metzeler ME88 or ME880 rear tires handy but they were a genuine 6-ply nylon tire, not 6-ply rated.

[Bonz]

Nice! Which version of the pilot is that?

[speedlimit85]

I need new tires and thanks to this thread, I thought about trying another brand since you are correct that some of my brand loyalty is outdated.
I looked at the Conti go and the Dunlops again. Instead I will try Michelin pilot and they are V rated.

[Bonz]

speedlimit85, what are the options for 130 mph H rated tire you are considering based on your question? From what I understand and what 3phase has shared, I don't know what brands or options you have with load ratings that fit the bike.

3phase, The ply rating is simply to put it in terms of when they used old fashion cotton fabric to make tires. Ply rating keeps things consistent across the industry and over time. I don't think the number of plies matters as much as what the equivalent ply rating is along with load capacity in combination.

[3Phase]

When was the last time an XS1100 went over 130 mph for a sustained period would be my question to the collective?

They don't.

The softer compound for the V rated tire wears out quicker too so you go through more tires than using H rated tires with an appropriate load index.

Shinko 230 Tourmaster is rated for 149 mph. Should give you some margin over lesser tires with lesser speed ratings.

The 230 Tourmaster has a 4-ply rating, not four plys, but [LINK] Shinko lists it as a 4-ply tire on their web site.

For the XS1100 the front and rear tires are only available in the V-rating with load index ratings:

Front
57 @ 507lb (230kg) for the 100/90-19

Rear
73 @ 805lb (365kg) on the 130/90-16
74 @ 827lb (375kg) on the 130/90-17



[LINK] Web Bike World | Motorcycle Tire Speed Ratings, Load Ratings and Tire Size Designations

Even with the H-rated tire, I wouldn't be comfortable hitting much less cruising at 130 MPH on a two or three ply tire with over 500lbs on the front and 800lbs on the rear when you hit ludicrous-speed and go plaid.

[Bonz]

When was the last time an XS1100 went over 130 mph for a sustained period would be my question to the collective? Shinko 230 Tourmaster is rated for 149 mph. Should give you some margin over lesser tires with lesser speed ratings.

[speedlimit85]

Does anyone get the V rated tires that are built to exceed 130 mph?

[3Phase]

LakeOber, it's easy to miss but if the tire isn't seated evenly around the rim then it can leak and it'll 'squirm' slightly as you ride, the tire won't run or wear evenly.

I found a tutorial with a picture of what in blazes I'm talking about over at motorcyclecruiser.com:-

15. Inflate the tire slowly, using no more than the recommended pressure. If you’re installing a new tire you may hear a “pop” as pressure forces the bead into place. Old tires may not seat as forcefully, so don’t be alarmed if yours gives you the silent treatment. Adjust pressure to the recommended setting and then locate the bead indicator on the tire. Some bead indicators are just a raised rubber strip, while others look like hash marks scribed into the tire. The indicator should be equidistant from the rim all the way around the wheel. If it isn’t, try adding air; you can go as high as 45 psi. If the tire still won’t seat correctly, release the air, lubricate the bead and try again. Once it’s seated, adjust pressure to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Tire Changing 101
A How-To of Tire Changing
By Mark Zimmerman Photography by Mark Zimmerman June 2, 2016

If the bead line still doesn't line up all the way around, don't use a pointy metal thing to dig the bead out of the rim.

Let most of the air out of the tire, then carefully bounce it on the floor at the spot where the line is off.

A mallet can work too. Strike the tire at an angle to move the bead 'in' or 'out' of the rim until it's even all the way around. Don't put the wheel on the floor with the brake disk down and then beat on the tire, you'll mess up the disk.

If the bead is really stubborn and doesn't want to straighten up, let even more air out and then lean on the darn thing as you roll it back and forth on floor. No, I do not have any pictures of that procedure.

[LakeOber]

I recall my tires had pressure drop after the first ride and I was sure the installer screwed up something, but once I returned them to proper level they stayed.

I also noted how much the temperature of the day affects the tire pressures on the bike, and so I became quite religious about checking them before a ride.

So for me, after that initial apparent drop after installation, they hold the air fine.

Turns out, this is exactly what it was. I think they were slowly deflating from the cold month we had and I just noticed them all the sudden. I filled up the front again and checked it 2 days later...same exact pressure. I also found that the rear tire had lost about 10psi (it wasn't as noticeable as the front). So looks like I'm good to go. Thanks for everyones input.

[dbbrian]

Tire Pressures

I recall my tires had pressure drop after the first ride and I was sure the installer screwed up something, but once I returned them to proper level they stayed.

I also noted how much the temperature of the day affects the tire pressures on the bike, and so I became quite religious about checking them before a ride.

So for me, after that initial apparent drop after installation, they hold the air fine.

[LakeOber]

Thanks for the help guys. I had to leave for work so I didn't get a chance to spray around the valve stem and check for bubbles. I did look at the pressure though, and it appears to be holding still. Also, I checked the core quickly and that appeared fine as well. I have no idea if the shop used the old valve or if they installed a new one. I will have to check with them to verify it. I will check the valve stem tonight for leaks.

[CJPetersen2000]

Might not have seated properly when it was installed or rim not cleaned enough to allow a proper seal causing a slow leak. Was a new valve stem installed?...old ones are prone to dry out. crack and can leak. Check the valve core to make sure its tight and doesnt leak. I prefer to check this by takin off cap and puting spit from my finger covering the hole. If it bubbles...it's leaking, replace it. Sounds like you had a slow leak and you might want to inform whoever changed it of your problem. I'm sure you didnt damage the tire turning the wheel it was probably allready low and these are heavy bikes that are hard to move with flat tires! Good luck I'm anxious to hear how the 777s work on your bike.

[bikerphil]

Check the pressure with a gauge tonight and again in the AM. Did you spray soapy water on/around the valve stem?