1979 xs1100s ignition issue

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    just did the test light. with the red and white still plugged in i removed the orange and grey. I touched the test light to the orange female and I have light. touched the the grey and I have light. so on to the next. maybe it is the battery?

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  • BA80
    replied
    yeah CZ, I DO tend to assume....................

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  • CaptonZap
    replied
    To clarify what Greg is saying about the test light, it looks like an ice pick with a plastic light bulb in the handle, and a wire with a clip on the end coming out of the handle. Hook the clip to a CLEAN ground, (anyplace on the frame or bolt heads,) and when you poke the wire connecter with the pointed end, if there is voltage there, the bulb will light.
    Turn the key on, (don't start it), and poke the orange and grey connecters on the leads to the coils. The bulb should light.


    CZ

    Didn't mean to step on your toes Greg, just didn't know if he has your expertise and experience with the implements that we use, and thought I would clarify the process.

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  • BA80
    replied
    Originally posted by dondons1984
    OK I'll have to it that when I get home after work. I'm just lost cause both coils going bad is very rare. But the bike sat for so long so idk
    Your absolutely correct about the coils. Never both at the same time.

    I'll almost guarantee it's something simple. It's just a matter of finding it.

    Stop at a parts house and pick up a $2 electrical test light. Easier to use for most testing than a VOM.

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    OK I'll have to it that when I get home after work. I'm just lost cause both coils going bad is very rare. But the bike sat for so long so idk

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  • BA80
    replied
    There should be a 20 volt setting.

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    OK so I setmy multi meter two bolts or ohms?

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  • BA80
    replied
    Just check for voltage right now, don't go to thinking about bad coils.

    It should be at least at or near 12v and stay above 10.5 while cranking the engine.

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    OK what am I setting my multimeter to to check that? Also how do I bench test the coils? I don't wanna buy new coils if I can avoid it.

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  • BA80
    replied
    That's OK. When you crank it the oil pump is pumping and the oil pressure kicks off the light. Normal.

    At the coil connections there is an orange wire going to one coil and a gray wire going to the other. You should have voltage to both of those wires with the ignition on.

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    Originally posted by dondons1984
    OK the connections look fine and the board looks brand new
    OK so this is going to sound retarded but when I go to start the oil light is on and then when I crank it goes off

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    OK the connections look fine and the board looks brand new

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  • BA80
    replied
    Originally posted by dondons1984
    OK I am going to do that. You keep saying tci but what is that? Where is it located?
    Transistor Controlled Ignition ( TCI )

    The black box under the seat.

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  • dondons1984
    replied
    OK I am going to do that. You keep saying tci but what is that? Where is it located?

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  • BA80
    replied
    Check all of you connectors from the pickups on up to the TCI and everything in between. Be sure all are clean and are making good contact. especially those behind the fuse panel. The same with all the fuses.

    9 times out of 10 it's simply a bad connection somewhere.

    There are bullet connectors at the coils also and if that isn't the issue try unplugging the tip over switch. Coil connections and tip over are under the tank.
    Last edited by BA80; 06-29-2013, 11:54 AM.

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