I don't think my brake pads are supposed to look like this (pics) lol

[justme1100]

The XJ11 also has the tapered rear pads as well. I also didn't know until I received the new pads which were tapered as well. Another one of the strange things I have found on my 31 yr old scooter.

[windysolar1]

Copperslip

spread copper slip around the pistons to stop water getting at them and to stop the disc from squeeling

job done

[Jeffintampa]

Ok I am a dumb arsh

crap, I thought both pads with the slot went on the out side, never did I Figure that they both were on one side, got the first ones to work sorry about all the confusion and thank you all for your help......

Jeff

[Petersg_99]

Funny, my standard had that type of pad on the rear brake and I couldn't figure out what the po had done to mess up the brakes so badly. Turns put they just put the wrong pads on

[JeremyL]

Hi Jeremy,
at least you ain't as dumb as me. I had the same WTF? moment when I first got my XS11SG but unlike yourself, I didn't ask, I tossed the pads and ordered a new set.
Discolored old brake fluid will still work so long as it hasn't gone lumpy but the new clear stuff works better.

I was actually going to just go ahead and order the pads and found some online but right before I placed the order I thought I'd post the pics here. And I really just posted it as a joke, making fun of how screwed up my bike was. I was also afraid that something major was wrong with the bike or the PO put standard calipers on or something crazy like that and figured I'd better make sure I'm not ordering the wrong thing.

Anyways, the old fluid isn't too too bad (should've taken a pic). I'm hoping a flush will help but I'm going to do a complete overhaul yet. I've had some old 70s and 80s bikes that I bought that had sat for a decade and has to be completely taken apart and rebuilt and cleaned. This one looks like its old but not crusty yet.

[fredintoon]

Wow now I feel dumb. When I saw the pads I was like AH-HA because I've never seen any brake pads on a car or a bike (although I've only owned like 5 bikes before) like that. At first I thought you were being sarcastic. I kept staring at the wheel and caliper trying to figure out how else to put them together.


Also, since you mentioned the dirty brake fluid (and since my pads are apparently okay) I actually got the front brake fluid cover off just this past weekend AFTER TWO YEARS of trying. The screws are in poor shape and I was afraid I would strip the heads of the screws as I did with 2 other older bike I had before. I got a proper fitting screw driver, pushed down HARD, and took my time and they all 4 loosened up. The fluid was pretty rough looking but I've seen worse. I was planning on replacing it anyways. The level feels very firm so I'm hoping I won't have to rebuild the MC although I've rebuilt a few on older bikes from the 70/80s that I had and it was easy. Maybe I'll get away with just changing the fluid. Glad I check with you guys on the pads I was ready to order another set.

And you weren't just messing with me right?

Hi Jeremy,
at least you ain't as dumb as me. I had the same WTF? moment when I first got my XS11SG but unlike yourself, I didn't ask, I tossed the pads and ordered a new set.
Discolored old brake fluid will still work so long as it hasn't gone lumpy but the new clear stuff works better.

[DGXSER]

The reason for the taper is to account for the misalignment of the caliper with the disc. Really though, the front calipers on the Specials have a single mounting bolt through the caliper in the vertical. So the caliper rotates on this single bolt and it seems with the distance form the center of the wheel and the ability to add metal and weight to the fork, the mounting point is a shorter distance than required for the caliper to hit the rotor squarely like it does on the Standard models (and every other vehicle I have ever seen ). So to allow the pads to hit the rotor correctly, they are tapered like that.

Does make you wonder about the forces being applied at an angle to the pads wearing surface though and how that effects the braking.

[Tat2demon]

I also wondered about how the pads wouldn't have to be replaced more often since the low side of the pad would obviously have less material and would be closer to wearing out than a regular pad -- unless they made even the thinnest part as thick as a regular straight pad. Oh welli tend to ask too many questions.

It looks to be the same thickness on the small end as my standard pads do.

[Tat2demon]

Don't feel bad Jeremy. One of my very first post on this forum was to ask the same question regarding brake pads on my first SH. I saw those pads and thought WTF!! How in the hates does this happen?? Only to find, like you, and I believe from the same source, BikerPhil, that I was viewing almost new factory pads.

One of those things where you can not help but wonder who was smoking what when they conceived those things.

Nate, those tapered pads are only for the Special owners....owners of the special model that is. The read brakes on the special, and all three on the Standard models are normal straight cut pads.

Ah gotcha. I would like to find the engineer that thought changing every part between the models was a good idea and give him a good smack upside the head.

[JeremyL]

Your biggest grief will be the brake fluid and the little tiny return hole in the MC. The sediment in the old brake fluid blocks the return hole so you can put the brakes on, but fluid can't return to let the brakes off. Take the MC off and completely clean it out, maybe buying a rebuild kit if the original is looking ugly. Clean out all your lines and take your calipers apart carefully and clean the pistons all up, use brake grease to put the caliper seals back in carefully. I've done this a number of times and if done carefully you're good to go. It's the MC return hole that's giving you trouble. And no need to feel dumb, it's a new bike to you, you gotta learn sometime. Use Dot 3.

Thanks for explaining it, that makes total sense about the return hole being plugged.

Don't feel bad Jeremy. One of my very first post on this forum was to ask the same question regarding brake pads on my first SH. I saw those pads and thought WTF!! How in the hates does this happen?? Only to find, like you, and I believe from the same source, BikerPhil, that I was viewing almost new factory pads.

One of those things where you can not help but wonder who was smoking what when they conceived those things.

Nate, those tapered pads are only for the Special owners....owners of the special model that is. The read brakes on the special, and all three on the Standard models are normal straight cut pads.

I wonder what the idea was behind the tapered pads? Surely it was out of necessity because the Special forks or something left them with no option. I also wondered about how the pads wouldn't have to be replaced more often since the low side of the pad would obviously have less material and would be closer to wearing out than a regular pad -- unless they made even the thinnest part as thick as a regular straight pad. Oh welli tend to ask too many questions.

[DGXSER]

Don't feel bad Jeremy. One of my very first post on this forum was to ask the same question regarding brake pads on my first SH. I saw those pads and thought WTF!! How in the hates does this happen?? Only to find, like you, and I believe from the same source, BikerPhil, that I was viewing almost new factory pads.

One of those things where you can not help but wonder who was smoking what when they conceived those things.

Nate, those tapered pads are only for the Special owners....owners of the special model that is. The read brakes on the special, and all three on the Standard models are normal straight cut pads.

[Courtney]

Your biggest grief will be the brake fluid and the little tiny return hole in the MC. The sediment in the old brake fluid blocks the return hole so you can put the brakes on, but fluid can't return to let the brakes off. Take the MC off and completely clean it out, maybe buying a rebuild kit if the original is looking ugly. Clean out all your lines and take your calipers apart carefully and clean the pistons all up, use brake grease to put the caliper seals back in carefully. I've done this a number of times and if done carefully you're good to go. It's the MC return hole that's giving you trouble. And no need to feel dumb, it's a new bike to you, you gotta learn sometime. Use Dot 3.

[Tat2demon]

Strange, mine are flat. No taper.

[JeremyL]

No we aren't messing with you, many have thought the same thing you did about the tapered brake pads. Take the bolt spacer out of the calipers and grease them and you should be good to go. Flush the old fluid out and bleed and you may get lucky without a total system cleaning.

Awesome, thanks for the help guys. I definitely wouldn't have been able to redo this bike without this website -- probably would've ended up junking it or selling it cheap. I'll try lubing them and changing fluid and will report back.

One last question, DOT3 only or can I use DOT3 or 4? I thought DOT5 was all synthetic so I guess I don't need that.

[bikerphil]

No we aren't messing with you, many have thought the same thing you did about the tapered brake pads. Take the bolt spacer out of the calipers and grease them and you should be good to go. Flush the old fluid out and bleed and you may get lucky without a total system cleaning.