Replacing Pick-up Coil Wires

[Rasputin]

Just wondering if anyone has ever tried to get replacement pick up coils from another supplier as in non Yamaha. Not trying to hijack the thread but as many who know will answer here it seems reasonable to throw it in the mix. I have an idea that just won't go away on these and the supplier I have in mind invites new ideas. As far as I know they do not currently stock any motorcycle pieces, but maybe they could if other bikes have the same issues as we have. The problem would be that if only the XS11's are affected it will probably be too small a market for him to waste time/money on.

[TADracer]

This is the later routing... both pairs of wires come in at bottom, both pairs go anti-clockwise.


Presumably Yamaha was made aware of the pickup wire problem and changed the routing to try to solve the problem.

My bike has the later routing but still I find a weak point is right where the wires come into the compartment (right by the metal clip on the right-hand side of the picture). Seems alot of flexing takes place right there. Last time I have three wires spliced so far and all are in that vicinity.....getting kind of crowded.

All is working well right now (knock on wood) so when I decide to get into this little project I will take a bunch of pics for ya'll.

[Lamric]

Yamaha used (at least) two ways to route the pickup wires.

This is the earlier, and more common, route... both pairs of wires come in at the bottom, one pair go anticlockwise to lower pickup, one pair (orange and blue) go clockwise to upper pickup.


This is the later routing... both pairs of wires come in at bottom, both pairs go anti-clockwise.


Presumably Yamaha was made aware of the pickup wire problem and changed the routing to try to solve the problem.

[slow mo]

i replaced mine with multimeter lines , you can buy a cheap meter or go to the source and they sell the wires ,,most multimeter wires are specked out higher than Yamaha,s original p/u coil wires ,,,ride safe slow mo!

[mmatches1]

Wire Gauge?

Just wondering what gauge of wire you guys recommend. The above supplier referenced offers many gauges up to 13 ga. Thanks, Doug

[CaptonZap]

Right you are Steve, I have small rolls of 100C wire in the truck for replacing wiring in furnaces.
That is 212degFar, and most wire will handle over their rated temp rating, just for liability purposes, so I wasn't too out of line. Mea culpa.

CZ

Ooop's, lest Steve call me again on erroneous information, the wire is rated at 105C, which is 221 deg Far.
Whats 29 deg amongst friends, Steve?
CZ

[bikerphil]

If you don't clamp the wires down in those 2 clamps on the backing plate, the wires will flex much more evenly, not causing the breaking problem, or at least nearly not as fast so I have found. Since I started doing this, I have never had a wire breaking problem and I run a lot of miles on both my bikes. I always leave a little extra slack under the cover by moving the harness up a little in the grommet, that helps not to put a bend in the wires near the P/U coils themselves. If needed, a carefully placed small tie wrap or 2 will keep the wires from finding any moving parts, just my 2¢, YMMV

[TADracer]

The large loop would reduce the stiffness factor by a bunch, plus reduce the bend angle in the wire, which would lesson the tendency to work harden and break.

This is one of the reasons I am thinking of trying this. The wires are very flexible but the factory route inside the cover makes a few places where all the bending fatigue takes place. I figure there is alot of room inside the cover so why not use it to make a large, gradual loop and solve the problem

I figured finding the wire would be a problem but the copper capillary tubing connector CZ used sounds like a good idea. Whenever i do this I will make sure to take alot of pictures.

[CaptonZap]

Right you are Steve, I have small rolls of 100C wire in the truck for replacing wiring in furnaces.
That is 212degFar, and most wire will handle over their rated temp rating, just for liability purposes, so I wasn't too out of line. Mea culpa.

CZ

[crazy steve]

....and most plastics will take 250 or so, so the wires just get more pliable when hot...

Actually, they won't. Most 'standard' thermoplastic wire insulation is only rated to 60C/140F, the best is only 90c/194F. Go above their rating and you'll quickly boil away the votiles and the wire will get stiff; keep flexing it and the insulation will start to flake off and/or the wire will break.

Even the silicone insulation will eventually go bad under high heat, but will last much longer.

[CaptonZap]

I used test lead wire and put a loop in each one to avoid kinks. It has been that way for many years. At first I was afraid that the insulation would melt from heat, but that didn't happen.

Quick thinking, Skids

The large loop would reduce the stiffness factor by a bunch, plus reduce the bend angle in the wire, which would lesson the tendency to work harden and break. All in all, a good idea. Leave it to you engineers to figure this stuff out.
And the temperature in the chamber is never going to get hotter than the oil, and most plastics will take 250 or so, so the wires just get more pliable when hot, which helps with the following of the advance mechanism. A win win situation.
CZ

[skids]

Yeah, that was a suggestion. The only problem is that test leads, by design, have a thick layer of insulation to protect them from abuse, and that would tend to make them stiffer than the factory stuff, maybe inpeding the advance action. Don't know.
Next time I go over to my friends place, I'll find out what he has. CZ

I used test lead wire and put a loop in each one to avoid kinks. It has been that way for many years. At first I was afraid that the insulation would melt from heat, but that didn't happen.

[CaptonZap]

I read somewhere (maybe here?) that someone recommended wires from a multi-meter as these are subjected to a lot of twisting and bending from people constantly wrapping the wires around the meter before shoving it back into the tool box.

Yeah, that was a suggestion. The only problem is that test leads, by design, have a thick layer of insulation to protect them from abuse, and that would tend to make them stiffer than the factory stuff, maybe inpeding the advance action. Don't know.
Next time I go over to my friends place, I'll find out what he has. CZ

[barrelguy]

I read somewhere (maybe here?) that someone recommended wires from a multi-meter as these are subjected to a lot of twisting and bending from people constantly wrapping the wires around the meter before shoving it back into the tool box.

[crazy steve]

I hunted for a small quantity supplier, and this was what I came up with....

http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Test-Lead-Wire-Silicone-3086.htm?gclid=CNaHv6jKgbUCFct7QgodNnAA9w

Still not cheap, but at least you don't have to buy a whole roll. This type of wire is extremely expensive (which is probably why Yammy spliced it) and not something you can find easily. I recall buying a chunk in a large size (like 500 MCM, or about 1.25" diameter) and it was nearly $100 per foot...

You might also try a larger hobby shop; the RC and slot car crowd might have something that works. You need silicone insulation, the various plastics won't hold up....