XJ11 Exhaust stud bolts came out instead of nut unscrewing

[yamtom]

SS threaded rod

Hi Guys,

I have a couple feet or so SS threaded rod in the eight x 1.25 thread that I can cut lengths off in case any of you need studs in that configuration, I also have SS nuts too. I will check as to whether Alma Bolt can get brass nuts for that size. I do think that diverrays idea for the small block chevy studs is better though since those are purpose made to be exhaust studs and he has actually had experience using them.

[skids]

Personally, I wouldn't use loctite. Two of my standards have 4-1 Jardine headers and have a headed bolt on the top flange of the No 3 pipe (if memory serves me). The bolt is due to limited clearance. I don't torque the bolt much when I am installing new head pipe crush gaskets. I tighten it just enough to make a good seal. That said, I have never had a leaking crush gasket.

[CaptonZap]

So How does one properly install an exhaust stud?

And what is the proper torque for one of these studs?

On mine, I got some bolts that had enough thread on them to work. Then I cut the head off. (The metric bolt store didn't have studs long enough to work).
I put a bevel on the end of the bolt that went into the head, using a belt sander.
Then I double nutted the stud and installed it. You will feel the stud get real hard to turn when it bottoms out. If you feel the threads are good enough to take the torque, you can bear down. My threads were loose, since the PO had used Allen bolts to hold the pipes in, and they had corroded, and came out hard. So I just snugged the studs down, and applied Never-Seize to the threads sticking out, so the nuts don't corrode and tighten up on the studs.
It would be hard to apply a torque value to use, it is a "feel" thing that you have to develop. If the threads are good, you should be able to get 15 ft/lbs without problems. If the threads are worn, less would be better. If the nuts do not get rusted/corroded on, there should not be anywhere near that torque required to remove them. I would try 5 ft/lbs, and see if they hold. (Its easier to re-torque them than it is to fix a stripped thread). Keep your eye on them, and if one comes loose, torque it in a little more.
Loctite #266 is good to 450 deg, and is a bit pricey. If your aluminum head gets to 450, it will start to lose strength, and I don't think the stud will get that hot, so the Loctite should work OK. The down side is that if you ever want to get the studs out, you will need to get the heads up to that temp to soften the Loctite, and working on hot heads is not a lot of fun.
I didn't use Loctite, but I will if I have problems.
Good luck, and let us know what works. CZ

[KA1J]

So How does one properly install an exhaust stud?

And what is the proper torque for one of these studs?

[natemoen]

That works man!

[KA1J]

Well... IF... my XJ11 had the looks of my XJ650 with immaculate chrome everywhere & the only notable dings are on the gas tank where I dropped it during a tuneup & it bounced off the engine & onto a rock... I'd really try to keep the chrome look up.

On the XJ11 though, these headers are rusty aftermarket 4-1 & I can't even have the center stand on the bike because of them, just the kickstand. I didn't even notice there was no center stand on it till I got back And my foot hit air instead of the stand.

I do want the bike to look clean when I'm done but unless I can find a 4-2 set of exhausts for a XJ11, high temp SS or black paint on these headers till I find an original set off a parts bike is my cheapest decent looking out.

[natemoen]

I am not saying I would change my pipes to suit my mood. Just saying I would have hardware that matches my pipes.

[cywelchjr]

Depends on the pipes I guess. If i had nice Chrome pipes I would rather change the nuts out once a year. If I had something else i would probably go with SS.

The only time I've taken my pipes loose was when I change the engine. I have NEVER taken the pipes loose on my 400, not in 23 years of ownership and/or riding. I will be taking them loose though, since I'm taking it down to the frame over the next year or so.

[natemoen]

Depends on the pipes I guess. If i had nice Chrome pipes I would rather change the nuts out once a year. If I had something else i would probably go with SS.

[cywelchjr]

I won't disagree there, but why not just go with chrome ones again.

Chrome will rust through eventually (can be pretty quick on many cases) where good SS will generally not do so. So discolored SS looks better IMHO than rusted through chrome.

[natemoen]

I would have to agree, that discolored SS would look better than rusty stock stuff.

I won't disagree there, but why not just go with chrome ones again.

[cywelchjr]

LOL, the existing Allen nuts are UGLY with rust. No matter what I do to them they're not going to be pretty. I was thinking SS (with anti-sieze) only for the non-rusting properties. The 4-1 unknown make (probably MAC) headers are 40% chrome & the top end is rusted. I've read about some SS ultra high temp spray paint which people have successfully used on their headers as a poor man chrome and I've thought that might be a good solution once I've removed the rust. That or black header paint. The bike is maroon though Connecticut DMV changed that to red... so a darker color on the headers wouldn't be an issue.

I'd rather have a clean original exhaust but I gots what I gots.

I would have to agree, that discolored SS would look better than rusty stock stuff.

[DiverRay]

You can use the GM smallblock studs from the local parts store as well. They ARE metric, and fit. I have one or two on the old '79, and they are still on. The other thing is if you get a "set", they come with the self locking bronze nuts!

[KA1J]

Some really helpful answers here. I'm not going to use bolts instead of studs, I need to replace the studs if I can't free the stuck Allen nuts up without damaging the threads. I'm going to try the back to back nuts idea (need to get them at the local hardware) & see if I can free the studs without damage. if not, I'll look around for proper studs and replace them.

Money's tight right now, isn't it for all of us... and even the little things add up if i can save some money. Besides, I like rehabbing more than replacing when I can.

Thanks for the suggestions & thoughts

[KA1J]

SS does not take heat well and will not look so pretty after it has been heated up a couple times.

LOL, the existing Allen nuts are UGLY with rust. No matter what I do to them they're not going to be pretty. I was thinking SS (with anti-sieze) only for the non-rusting properties. The 4-1 unknown make (probably MAC) headers are 40% chrome & the top end is rusted. I've read about some SS ultra high temp spray paint which people have successfully used on their headers as a poor man chrome and I've thought that might be a good solution once I've removed the rust. That or black header paint. The bike is maroon though Connecticut DMV changed that to red... so a darker color on the headers wouldn't be an issue.

I'd rather have a clean original exhaust but I gots what I gots.