Originally posted by TheNannerpus
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New member here, just bought an xs1100 special
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As cajun31 pointed out, I missed checking the pilot screws in my carb rebuild. So today I took it off again, removed all the rubber parts and got to removing them.
All the parts looked good to my untrained eye, but I replaced everything anyway. This picture shows the old parts.
Two things happened that made the day interesting:- I checked the screws' positions before removing, and the #3 screw was all the way in. When I took it out, there was no spring inside!?! I'm convinced I just dropped it somewhere.
- The #4 screw stripped. I ended up drilling it out, but I drilled off-center and couldn't use my screw extractor! 😬. As I began to panic, I decided to make decisions on how to fix it. If 1 hole got me in this mess, then a 2nd hole might get me out of it. So I drilled a 2nd hole next to the 1st one. Luckily, the two holes merged and created a new slot for me to use a screwdriver again. Luckily, it worked! I did score the edge of the hole a bit, but not enough to matter.
So with that tail-clenching fun behind me, I put the carb back together and reinstalled. I used a hanging gas tank with a splitter to see if removing the octy, plus the carb rework did anything.
After a few cranks, the bike fired up. Eventually, I could take it off choke, and even rev it! It was great to hear the sweet music. Keep in mind, I have yet to even ride this bike, and this was the first time I heard it in real life. I've had to resort to YouTube videos to watch others ride their XS.
I realized I didn't cap the old vacuum nipple, so that is next on the list, along with synching.
Also, it leaked gas as I tried restarting, but once it fired up, it stopped leaking. From what I can tell, it looks like it's leaking from the airbox? Wouldn't that mean the float valves are not working and the bowls are flooding? I replaced all those parts, and checked them, so I'd be surprised if they are the culprit.
Any thoughts?Last edited by TheNannerpus; 10-09-2021, 07:38 PM.
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Instead of the 4mm tap just screw a pointy sheet metal screw in the small hole you drilled and grab it with your small vicegrips and pull it out of your way. This way you avoid damaging the heads of the idle mixture screw. Speaking of those, they may be difficult to get out. Soak them in PB blaster and custom grind a screw driver to fit the screw slots. They are soft and you can create a drill it out situation if not careful.Last edited by wingnut; 10-09-2021, 09:22 AM.
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Originally posted by DiverRay View PostI've NEVER liked the octy! My MNS was the only bike I kept it, the rest, tossed it. My current ride is a '79 Special with a Standard tank. No octy, manual petcocks. When I put the stock tank back on, no octy. Just my personal preference.
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I've NEVER liked the octy! My MNS was the only bike I kept it, the rest, tossed it. My current ride is a '79 Special with a Standard tank. No octy, manual petcocks. When I put the stock tank back on, no octy. Just my personal preference.
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Originally posted by DiverRay View PostTo pull the carbs:
1. Remove ALL the bolts holding the airbox on.
2.Loosen all the clamps holding the carbs on.
3. Remove the fuel lines and octy if you are still using it.
4. Remove the breather tube from the airbox and engine.
5. Pull the airbox to the rear of the bike as far as you can.
6. Grab the carbs from both sides, twist the rear down, and lever out the LEFT side of the bike.
7. disconnect the throttle cable.
Reverse order to install.
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An Aussie, the barefoot mechanic has an excellent YouTube video on carb removal/install. You may find a tip or two on it.
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Just going to add to Ray's procedure. Taking the lower air cleaner off the air box gives a bit more room to move the air box around
---Bax
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To pull the carbs:
1. Remove ALL the bolts holding the airbox on.
2.Loosen all the clamps holding the carbs on.
3. Remove the fuel lines and octy if you are still using it.
4. Remove the breather tube from the airbox and engine.
5. Pull the airbox to the rear of the bike as far as you can.
6. Grab the carbs from both sides, twist the rear down, and lever out the LEFT side of the bike.
7. disconnect the throttle cable.
Reverse order to install.
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cajun31
Oh man, thanks! I have a new clue to solving this bike's problems. I didn't know about this. I wondered what all the extra parts in the carb rebuild kits were about 😳. Sucks that I have to pull the carb again, but I need the practice.
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Originally posted by TheNannerpus View Post
I did clean those things out, and they didn't seem all that dirty. But I went through a whole can of chemtool anyways. The outsides were far worse - a product of that leaking octy spraying gas all over, I think. Even the inside of the air box was sooty and greasy. I spent several hours degreasing that bike 😓, not perfection, but definite improvement.
The biggest PITA to me was getting the air inlet boots reattached.
My reinstall process was- Install intake manifold boots
- Try installing airbox
- Uninstall intake manifold boots
- Retry installing airbox
- Install intake manifold boots again
- Squeeze in carb, attach to manifold boots
- Fight for well over an hour with attaching those 🤬 air box boots
At least it idled."
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Originally posted by LoHo View PostCongrats on your purchase...be prepared to become an expert on carb cleaning...
The biggest PITA to me was getting the air inlet boots reattached.
My reinstall process was- Install intake manifold boots
- Try installing airbox
- Uninstall intake manifold boots
- Retry installing airbox
- Install intake manifold boots again
- Squeeze in carb, attach to manifold boots
- Fight for well over an hour with attaching those 🤬 air box boots
At least it idled.
Last edited by TheNannerpus; 10-03-2021, 09:08 AM.
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