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I've been tracing several electrical issues over the last few days. I thought I had it licked Saturday night. Took SWMBO for a ride yesterday...made it 5 miles from the house when the electrical gremlin showed up. Rode 3 hours with only a headlight...no tail, no signals, and worst of all - no horn! 
Anyway, we made it home before dark using hand signals and very careful driving.
I took the seat and tank off and found another bad connector (not related to the problem that caused the entire cluster to die) . I replaced half of the connector and moved on to the next bigger problem.
Short version - The brown wire in the main switch pigtail is broken inside the steel crimp on the bottom of the main switch provided by Yamaha. The bottom of the switch with the pigtail soldered on is held on with two screws. So, I can solder in new wires on the switch if required, but would really like to install a factory part. I can take the bottom off a good switch and screw it onto mine and still use my key.
If you have a part available - I don't necessarily need the key, but would like to have it in case, for some reason that is not presently apparent to me, I want to use the whole assembly.
Note - I do have one more test to run tonight before I confirm that the brown wire is broken inside the steel crimp.
Do you have a 10M-82508-50-00 available?
Let me know.
Robert
Longer version - I knew I was having an issue with the brown wire. But, I couldn't figure out where I was losing the connection. I knew the big connector for the rectifier had loose blade connectors, so I removed the female side of the connector and put new female blade terminals on the brown and green wire before plugging them back into the factory male connector. I had already cut the white rectifier wires off the connector when I hooked up Geezer's new rectifier/regulator. His early versions did not include the factory connectors. That thing is the bomb...twelve years old and counting.
Anyway, I started checking connectivity between various locations in the harness and discovered that I was not getting 12V in the brown wire "downstream" of the main switch. I removed the main switch, and connected my audible continuity tester between the red and brown spades in the factory connector. When I turned the switch on, I had connectivity. That was very strange since I had no connection on the bike. Then, I set the switch down to pick up my manual, and the audible alarm went off. I picked it back up and the alarm sounded. When I bend the wires right at the factory steel crimp, the connection opens and closes depending on the position of the wires. So, I was suspecting the "slip ring spots" inside the switch, but I don't think that's the problem at all. Tonight, I'll check continuity between the solder connection for each wire and the blade in the connector. I think it will confirm that the brown wire is broken. BTW, the same open/close behavior happens between the brown and blue wires and the brown and red/yellow wires when I bend the harness Edit: with the switch in the "ON" position.
Anyway, we made it home before dark using hand signals and very careful driving.
I took the seat and tank off and found another bad connector (not related to the problem that caused the entire cluster to die) . I replaced half of the connector and moved on to the next bigger problem.
Short version - The brown wire in the main switch pigtail is broken inside the steel crimp on the bottom of the main switch provided by Yamaha. The bottom of the switch with the pigtail soldered on is held on with two screws. So, I can solder in new wires on the switch if required, but would really like to install a factory part. I can take the bottom off a good switch and screw it onto mine and still use my key.
If you have a part available - I don't necessarily need the key, but would like to have it in case, for some reason that is not presently apparent to me, I want to use the whole assembly.
Note - I do have one more test to run tonight before I confirm that the brown wire is broken inside the steel crimp.
Do you have a 10M-82508-50-00 available?
Let me know.
Robert
Longer version - I knew I was having an issue with the brown wire. But, I couldn't figure out where I was losing the connection. I knew the big connector for the rectifier had loose blade connectors, so I removed the female side of the connector and put new female blade terminals on the brown and green wire before plugging them back into the factory male connector. I had already cut the white rectifier wires off the connector when I hooked up Geezer's new rectifier/regulator. His early versions did not include the factory connectors. That thing is the bomb...twelve years old and counting.
Anyway, I started checking connectivity between various locations in the harness and discovered that I was not getting 12V in the brown wire "downstream" of the main switch. I removed the main switch, and connected my audible continuity tester between the red and brown spades in the factory connector. When I turned the switch on, I had connectivity. That was very strange since I had no connection on the bike. Then, I set the switch down to pick up my manual, and the audible alarm went off. I picked it back up and the alarm sounded. When I bend the wires right at the factory steel crimp, the connection opens and closes depending on the position of the wires. So, I was suspecting the "slip ring spots" inside the switch, but I don't think that's the problem at all. Tonight, I'll check continuity between the solder connection for each wire and the blade in the connector. I think it will confirm that the brown wire is broken. BTW, the same open/close behavior happens between the brown and blue wires and the brown and red/yellow wires when I bend the harness Edit: with the switch in the "ON" position.